This guide will help to identify the mysterious names commonly found on labels. Click on the first letter in the name to see the alphabetic listing.
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
Abietic Acid
Obtained from pine rosin. Used as a texturizer in soaps.
Abrasives
The most frequently used are calcium carbonate (chalk) and, in toothpaste,
di-calcium phosphate dihydrate.
Absolutes
Pure essential oils acquired from plants (mostly flowers) and used in
products as natural fragrance additives.
Acetic Acid
Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. Used in hair dyes and
hand lotions, and in lotions for bleaching freckles. Skin irritant and
toxic to lungs.
Acetone
Colorless, flammable liquid. Used in nail polish, nail polish removers. It
is excessively toxic.
Acid Rinse
Extremely useful for eliminating soap films from the hair after
shampooing. A mixture of vinegar or lemon juice and water is a common one.
After Shave
A perfumed liquid usually containing alcohol used to soothe the skin after
shaving. May contain menthol to cool irritated skin.
After Shave Balm
After shave with a thicker consistency containing lotion for increased
moisturizing capabilities.
Albumin
Type of protein found in blood, egg whites, milk, fruits, and vegetables.
Alchemy
The study and practice of chemistry in the Middle Ages which focused
primarily on the transmutation of metals into gold and the finding of a
universal remedy for disease.
Alcohol
A group of compounds that includes ethanol, methanol, and others.
Alkyloamides
Groups of synthetic fatty acids designated as DEA, MEA, MIPA, and PEG.
Used for thickening, gelling, emulsifying, emolliency, skin and hair
conditioning, foam boosting, foam stabilizing, wetting, opacifying,
lubricating, powder binding, skin protecting, fungicidal properties, and
superfatting. Found in shampoos, bubble baths, and liquid hand and body
cleansers. Harmful when contaminated by nitrosamines and harmful to the
environment.
Allantoin
Reported to have healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties.
Extracted from urea, which is derived from the urine of most animals, and
from herbs like comfrey or uva ursi.
Aloe Vera Gel
Is a compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant, which is a South
African lilylike plant. A moisture storehouse for enzymes, vitamins,
proteins, and minerals that support skin functions, Aloe Vera helps
maintain the skin's moisture balance and stimulates blood circulation.
Tightens and rejuvenates skin leaving it silky feeling.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Group of acids that appear naturally in fruit. Used in toners, creams, and
masks to exfoliate and moisturize the skin. Can be a skin irritant causing
redness and rashes.
Amino Acids
Every living cell in the body contains protein and cannot function
properly without it. Approximately 80 amino acids are found in nature;
only 20 are necessary for human metabolism. Some must be supplied by food
and are called "essential". Amino acids are rapidly absorbed in
the blood stream, and in combination with vitamins, provide essential
nutrients to a wound area to promote healing.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Derived from natural coconut alcohols. Acts as a mild cleanser.
Anise Oil
Known for its warm, spicy liquorice-like scent. An antiseptic and
stimulant.
Antioxidants
Substances that slow the breakdown of nutrients and counteract the
destructive effect of free radicals (chemically reactive compounds) in the
body. There are several types which include vitamins A, E, C complex, and
B complex, the minerals selenium and zinc, and the synthetic compounds BHT
and BHA. Vitamins A, C, and E as well as BHA and BHT are used as
preserving agents in cosmetics.
Apothecary
A person who prepares and sells medications, a pharmacist. A system of
weights used in the pharmacy.
Apricot Kernel
A natural exfoliant especially when finely ground.
Arnica Extract
Herbal extract made from the dried flowers of a mountain-loving plant. Has
reviving and firming qualities.
Aroma
The pleasing odor, many times recognizable, given off by a substance.
Aromatherapy
The use of essences that are extracted from different parts of a plant -
Root, Seed, Flower, Leaf, Bark, Fruit. These essences are called essential
oils. Essential oils have numerous properties and various scents that
affect us on a mental, emotional, spiritual and physical level. The art of
using the essential (odor producing) oils from roots, barks, and herbs for
treating the skin and body.
Ascorbic Acid
Acid occurring naturally in many fruits. Also known as vitamin C. Used as
a preservative in food and cosmetics. Nontoxic and not a skin irritant.
Astringent
A clear liquid containing alcohol used mostly to cleanse oily skin, closes
pores with its property of contracting the skin.
Azuki Beans
Traditional Japanese beans which, when ground, are excellent natural
exfoliants. Protein and mineral rich.
Balm Mint Extract Base Notes Bath Gels Bath Oils Bath Powder Bath Salts
A fragrant herb with soothing properties
The infusion of fragrance with your personal body chemistry.
A perfumed foaming product used in the bath for its soothing, cleansing
and emollient qualities.
A perfumed liquid, usually containing mineral or vegetable oil, designed
to moisturize the skin in the bath. Can be foaming or non-foaming.
Scented loose powder applied to the body with a powder puff after bathing.
Rock salts used in the bath to color, scent and, or chemically treat the
water.
A natural substance that is prominent in pantothenic acid. European
research suggests it may be beneficial in fighting the effects of
radiation exposure. It is not, however, particularly valuable as a
topical.
Bentonite
Clay that is an effective skin clarifier. Used in facial masks. It takes
its name from Fort Benton where bentonite deposits are found.
BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylated
Hydroxytoluene)
Synthetic antioxidants used as preservatives.
Biochemistry
The learning of the chemical compounds workings that occur in living
plants and animals.
Biotin
It is one of the B vitamins that assists in dermatitis and hair loss.
Blackhead
The plug of a clogged oil gland (pore) exposed to the surface of the skin
with a black tip. Easily visible.
Blend
A thorough mixture of two or more substances so that neither is
distinguishable from the other. In makeup application, shading.
Body Lotion
A non-oily product applied to the skin to moisturize, soothe and scent.
Can be stored in a tube or bottle.
Borates
This common term refers to salts describable to boric oxide or orthoboric
acid.
Boric Acid
Also known as acidum boricum. Used widely as an eyewash. Odorless, white
crystalline powder. It can be used around windows and doors as a bug
repellent. Should not be used in baby cosmetics or baby powder. It is
poisonous at doses 1-3g for babies, 5g for children, and 15-20g for
adults.
Botanical
Any substance acquired from plants which has medicinal or similar uses.
Brewers Yeast
Rich in vitamins and proteins, this proven moisturizer helps keep skin
soft and supple.
Bronopol
Toxic alcohol. It is used in fabric softeners and detergents. It is also
used in face creams, shampoos, hair dressings, mascara, and bath oils. It
is a white crystalline powder that can cause skin irritation at
concentrations of .25%.
Butyl Acetate
A toxic solvent used in nail polish and many other products.
Butyl Stearate
An artificial chemical found in face creams and other facial care
products.
Calamine
A pink powder that is made of zinc oxide with a small amount of ferric
oxide. It is used in lotions, ointments, and liniments. It is a customary
mixture that is soothing and healing to the skin. It is great for itchy
rashes such as poison ivy. It is natural but some formulas contain phenol
which can cause poisoning when applied to the skin. A blend of natural
calamine and aloe vera is a good, pure skin treatment for burns, rashes,
and insect bites.
Calcium Alginate
Nontoxic. It is used in many foods for binding. Also used as a film-former
in peel-off masks. It is a stabilizer for oil-in-water emulsions.
Calcium Carbonate
Natural occurring salt that is found in limestone, chalk, and marble. It
is used as a pigment and for pigment prolonging. It has no known toxicity.
Calcium Chloride
Customarily used in road salt and antifreeze. It is used in cosmetics as
an emulsifier and texturizer. If taken internally, it can cause
constipation and stomach problems. It can also cause lung difficulties if
inhaled during manufacturing or processing. It's toxicity in cosmetics is
unknown.
Calendula Extract
Marigolds are the source for this wonderful emollient oil which has a
soothing effect on skin.
Camphor Oil
Distilled from the wood, roots and branches of an evergreen tree native to
China and Japan. Used to treat acne, inflammation, oily conditions, spots.
Candelilla Wax
A herbal wax. It is used in lipsticks, in creams, and as a replacement for
rubber.
Caprylic acid
An oil liquid made by the oxidation of octanol for use in perfumery.
Occurs naturally in palm and coconut oil.
Capsicum Oleoresin
An oil from the pepper family that is used in hair tonics to arouse the
scalp. It is said to upgrade hair growth. It may however cause allergic
reactions in some people.
Caramel
A concentrated solution of heated sugar or glucose. It is used in
cosmetics as a color and in skin lotions as a soothing agent. In 198,1 the
FDA ruled caramel generally recognized as safe.
Carbomer 934,940,941,960,961
Used in many cosmetics and toothpastes as a thickener. It can cause eye
irritation.
Carmine
Natural red color comes from the dried female cochineal beetle. It is
sometimes used to color lip gloss, lipsticks, and other cosmetics.
Carotenoids
Develops in plants and in the bodies of plant-eating animals. They are
precursors to vitamin A.
Carrot Oil
Rich in vitamins and minerals, this oil has many antiseptic properties.
Smoothes and tones skin. Used for skin conditions such as dermatitis,
eczema, psoriasis and rashes.
CA 24
Used as an antimicrobial in shampoos and bath lotions at concentrations of
up to .3%. Humans have had allergic reactions to a .1% water solution of
it within 24, 48, or 72 hours of use. CA 24 contains 70% chloroacetamide
and 30% sodium benzoate.
Cell Renewal
The orderly replacement of the skin cells from the basal layer to the
stratum corneum, a process which ordinarily takes from 28 - 35 days
although this time increases with age.
Cellulose
The fiber in the cell walls of all plants. Gum that is made from it is
used as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and binder in cosmetics. There is no
known toxicity. Inhaling the powder during manufacturing or processing can
be harmful to the lungs.
Certified Colors
A color "certified" by the FDA as safe. However, various colors
(coal tar dyes) have been found to cause cancer. But, hair dyes are exempt
from even this regulation.
Ceteareth-3
Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and lotion. Dries out the skin and
causes numerous allergic reactions.
Cetearyl Alcohol
May be natural or artificial. It's used in most lotions. A thickener and
carrying agent for other ingredients.
Cetyl Alcohol
Used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other
ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or
synthetically.
Cetyl Lactate, Myristate, Palmitate, and
Stearate
Natural or synthetic compounds used as emollients and texturizers in
cosmetics.
Chamomile Oil
Known for its calming effect. Soothing and anti-inflammatory for the skin
and the spirit.
Citric Acid
Used as a flavoring agent in foods and pharmaceuticals, and as a
preservative sequestering agent. Foam-stabilizer and pH-adjuster in
cosmetics. It is nontoxic.
Clover Blossom Extract
Soothes and conditions the skin.
Coal Tar
A topical anti-eczematic. Coal is a mineral of organic origin, formed from
the remains of vegetation which over millions of years has changed to
coal. From early times, people relied on the strength of the sun and the
use of coal tar as their only form of treatment for psoriasis.
Cocamide DEA, MEA, and MIPA
See alkyloamides.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Artificial substance frequently referred to as a natural substance made
"from coconuts" on the labels of shampoos. It's a secondary
surfactant, used in combination with other, stronger surfactants.
Cod Liver Oil
A rich source of vitamins A and D. When vitamin A deficiency occurs the
most outstanding symptom is dry, scaly skin, particularly on the hands and
soles of the feet.
Collagen
70% of the body's connective tissue in the dermis is made of collagen.
Gerontologists have discovered that is where the aging process of the skin
takes place. Young connective tissue is made up of soluble collagen whose
molecules are disordered in relation to each other. As the skin ages, and
is exposed to sunlight, chemicals (like makeup, coal tar dyes, etc., and
various foods), the soluble collagen becomes "cross-linked," so
the molecules are no longer displaced in relation to each other.
Cross-linking makes the collagen insoluble and inflexible. As this
happens, the connective tissues becomes strained, dry, wrinkled, and worn.
Cologne
Fragrance applied to the skin, usually with a floral or citrus base.
Originally named after a town in Germany, it usually contains an alcohol
content higher than that of perfume. Fragrance concentration of 2-5%.
Cologne (Men)
The most concentrated form of fragrance for men. A blend of ingredients
which can include alcohol, essential oils and natural or man-made scents
combined for a unique fragrance experience.
Comfrey
A plant that produces Allentoin, an ingredient that promotes skin healing.
This extract is anti-inflammatory, astringent and emollient.
Cornflower
Known for its ability to soften skin, leaving it more supple. A natural
antiseptic.
Cucumber
Has soothing effects on the skin and improves moisture retention.
Cyclomethicone
Emollient skin conditioning agent derived from silica. Water repellent,
skin-adherent and stable over a wide range of temperatures.
Dandruff
Dandruff: A chronic noninflammatory scaling of the scalp. The absence of
inflammation sets dandruff apart from other scaling conditions of the
scalp, namely, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Dandruff can be
confused with dry scalp. Dry scalp is caused by drying conditions. Wind,
indoor heat, sap moisture from the scalp, causing flaking. Dandruff is the
result of accelerated cell turnover and people with oily scalps tend to
suffer most from dandruff. The dandruff test: brush or shake hair over
dark paper. If you see powdery flakes, it's dry scalp. If you see clumps,
you may have dandruff.
D&C
This abbreviation preceding the name of a color means that the FDA has
certified it as safe for use in drugs and cosmetics, but not in food.
D&C means that the color can only be used externally and not around
the eyes or inside the mouth. D&C colors are usually man-made.
Dantoin 685
A preservative used in shampoos and deodorants. Contains formaldehyde and
N-acetal. Highly toxic. Also listed as DMDM hydantoin.
Deodorant
A product that reduces perspiration odor. There are natural deodorants
containing herbs like marigold and vitamin E. Deodorants do not stop
perspiration.
Dehydration
Loss of water/moisture from the body or skin.
Depilatories
Destroy hair by breaking the chemical bonds that hold it together. After
using any hair removal method, a moisturizer should be applied to soothe
the skin.
Dermatitis
Inflammation of the skin covering a wide variety of skin disorders and
evidenced by itching, redness and various skin lesions. Can be due to one
of several causes - systemic disease, skin irritants such as poison ivy,
corrosives, acids and alkalies or hypersensitivity.
Dermis
The second or middle layer of skin. contains the blood vessels, elastin
and collagen, etc.
Detergent
These artificial soaps may be made with a variety of chemicals and are
frequently not biodegradable.
Diethanolamine
More commonly known by its abbreviation, DEA. One of many artificial
detergents. It may be contaminated with nitrosamines and should be
avoided.
Dimethicone
Gives a smooth feel to a cosmetic cream or lotion. Various allergic
reactions and internal problems make them questionable as cosmetic
ingredients. Although they're still widely used, they should be avoided.
Many herbal oils, such as vegetable glycerin, can easily replace this
chemical.
DMDM Hydantoin
See Dantoin 685.
Drug
According to the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (as amended), a drug
is:
- Articles recognized in the United States Pharmacopoeia, the official National Formulary, or any supplement to any of them.
- Articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease in human beings or other animals.
- Articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of human beings or other animals.
Eau de Parfum
Women’s fragrance with a lighter scent concentration than perfume (8 to
15%). Can be used in a spray application.
Eau de Toilette
See Toilet Water
Eczema
Acute or chronic weeping, crusting and inflammatory skin conditions.
Eczema is more the description of a symptom than of a disease. The word has
become synonymous with dermatitis.
EDC
Eau de Cologne. See Cologne
EDP
See Eau de Parfum
EDT
See Toilet Water
EDTA
An artificial chemical that is used as an antioxidant and as a "complexing"
agent in shampoos, which means that it binds metallic irons so that the
surfactants can work more effectively.
Elder Flowers
Elder flower has been used for generations to keep complexion soft. It
both tones and protects the skin.
Emollients
Prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin.
They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil.
Emulsion
A stable combination of oil and water phases accomplished with the use of
surfactants.
Epidermis
The outer layer of skin.
Essential Fatty Acids
Sometimes known as vitamin F, these substances can't be manufactured by
the body and must be consumed in the diet. There are three types: linoleic,
linolenic and arachidonic. The primary fatty acids fulfill many functions
in our bodies. They lubricate, aid in the transportation of oxygen to the
cells, and help thicken the blood.
Essential Oils
Oily liquids obtained from plants. Complex mixtures of alcohols, ketones,
phenols, acids, ethers, aldehydes, esters, oxides, and sulfur compounds
(among others). They're also called volatile oils, ethereal oils,
essences, or absolutes.
Ethanol (or ethyl alcohol)
Colorless, vaporizable liquid. Has a burning taste. Well-known to most of
us as the active ingredient in alcoholic beverages. Commonly called simply
"alcohol," although there are many other kinds of alcohols.
Ethanol is widely used in cosmetics as a solvent and as an antibacterial
agent. As a preservative, it's effective at concentrations of 15% to 20%.
It's an antitoxin in concentrations of 60% to 70%, with a bactericidal
effect within 45 seconds. It's also used in acne treatments and in rinses
for oily hair.
Ethanol absorbs water and thus can be very drying in fast-drying skin
lotions (at concentrations of 15%); the lotions need to include glycerols
and vegetable oils to minimize the drying effect. Provokes a late allergic
reaction in some people when used topically. Taken orally, ethanol is
toxic in doses above 80g.
Ethanol is often purposely made poisonous by the addition of methanol and
it is then known as SDA (specially denatured alcohol).
Ethyl Acetate
Compound made from acetic acid and ethyl alcohol used as a solvent and in
nail polish and nail polish removers. May irritate skin.
Eucalyptus Extract
Stimulating and antiseptic oil. Aids in the formation of healthy skin
tissue. Very healing.
Exfoliant
A product used to shed the superficial cells of the outer layer of skin.
Exfoliate/Exfoliant
To remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells with a scrub or cleanser.
Ext. D&C
When followed by a color, means that the FDA has certified it as safe for
use only in drugs and in cosmetics used externally and not around the eyes
or inside the mouth. It is not safe for foods.
Fats
Acquired from animal fat, oil seeds, or fruit pulp. They are used as
lotion or salve in cosmetics. They can be solid, semisolid, or liquid.
Fatty Acids
Organic oils found in vegetable and animal fats. Excellent skin emollients
and an important part of the diet.
Fatty Alcohols
Thick to semi-thick syrup-like liquids. Give high emolliency. Can be
natural or man-made. Sometimes used in hair and skin-conditioners, creams,
lotions, and conditioning shampoos.
FDA
The Food and Drug Administration. The federal agency responsible for
managing the safety and strength of all foods and drugs, and cosmetics
sold in the US.
FD&C
When preceded by the name of a color, the Food and Drug Administration has
certified the coloring safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics.
Flacon
A small bottle with a stopper used to hold perfume, usually a decorative
or collectible item.
Fluid Ounces
Unit of volume in the U.S. system of weights and measures. Used to measure
liquid, one fluid ounce is equal to 29.57 milliliters.
Fluoride
Fluoride is toxic. It is however used in toothpaste as an antienzyme
ingredient to slow down tooth decay. It is added to the water supply in
some states and sites.
Formaldehyde
Colorless, harsh, irritating substance that is found in many
preservatives. It is severely toxic when inhaled or swallowed. 44% of all
people whose skin is exposed to it get an irritating reaction. It is used
in shampoos at concentrations of .1% to .2%. Methanol is sometimes added
to formaldehyde at a 15% concentration to prevent polymerization.
Fragrance
Sweet pleasing odor used to enhance products of all kinds, especially in
the beauty industry. May be used in differing concentrations for various
products.
Fragrance-Free
No added fragrances; just the natural aroma of the ingredients.
Fragrance Oil
A concentrated product used in the creation of perfume, cologne or toilet
water.
Free –Radical
Circulating substances in the body that could cause a breakdown of the
immune system and lead to disease processes or infection.
Free Radicals
Unstable or chemically incomplete molecules which can be formed within
skin as a result of sun, pollution and stress. These molecules may
"steal" particles from other molecules thus creating more
unstable compounds and setting off a chain reaction that can damage cells.
Anti-oxidants such as Vitamins C and E fight free radical action that can
weaken epidermal support, resulting in wrinkling of skin, dryness, loss of
skin elasticity and premature aging.
Fruit Acids
Found in various fruits and herbs. They are used in masks and moisturizers
for their ability to moisturize and exfoliate the skin. Fruit acids are
used in concentrations as low as .25% and as high as 8%. The higher
concentrations increase the "heat" of the product and the
peeling action. It can also cause skin irritation in some people.
Full Bodied
A rich-scented fragrance.
Gamma Linolenic Acid
A fatty acid. Found in evening primrose oil, black currant seeds, borage
oil, and mother's milk.
Gelatin
Refined protein from animal origin. Used as a thickener and film-forming
agent.
Geranium Oil
An effective anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and astringent derived from the
aromatic plant. For use on acne and oily skin.
Ginger Oil
Revered in Asia since the earliest of times, ginger acts as an antiseptic
and stimulant.
Gingko Biloba Oil
Ginko, thought to be the oldest tree on the planet, has long been used in
Chinese medicine. Used for its anti-inflammatory and antiallergenic
properties.
Glycereth
A polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin. It is an artificial form of
glycerin.
Glycerin, Glycerine, Glycerol
Sweet, syrupy alcohol that can be produced artificially from propylene
alcohol or naturally derived from vegetable oils. Used in cosmetics for
thousands of years as a solvent, plasticizer, humectant, emollient, and
lubricant.
Glyceryl Coconate, Dilaurate, Erucate,
Hydroxystearate, Monostearate, Myristate, Oleate, Ricinoleate,
Sesquioleate, Stearate, Trimyristate, etc.
Largely artificial chemicals with a drop or two of some natural fatty
acid. Used as a texturizer in pasta products and as a opacifying agent in
shampoos, lotions, and creams.
Glycolic Acid
Used as a skin care treatment in exfoliation creams and masks. It may
irritate mucous membranes and cause allergic reactions.
Grapefruit Oil
A natural bactericide, preserver and stabilizer. Both a tonic and
astringent.
Green Tea
Anti-carcinogenic. Contains polyphenolic antioxidants which play an
important role in the prevention of cell damage. Has a soothing and
moisturizing effect.
Gums
Polysaccharides of high molecular weight that are scattered in water. They
are incomparable to manufactured polymers like the PVP/PVA copolymers.
Some gums are used as hair setting products. Natural thickeners are
acacia, tragacanth, quince seed, and locust bean.
Health
The state of physical and mental well-being, free from disease.
Hemp Seed Oil
A natural source of essential fatty acids vital in preventing cell loss,
regulating skin's moisture barrier and maintaining elasticity. This oil
absorbs directly into the skin and provides important amino acids,
linoleic acid, protein and highly prized Omega oils. Skin visibly responds
to this rich nourishment.
Herb
Particularly used in medicine, cosmetics, or foods. A plant without woody
tissue that withers and dies after flowering.
Herbal
The fragrance blend from the herbaceous family of plant life. This is a
fresh scent that can be used successfully in shampoos and body products.
Herbalist
Person who is in the business of cultivating and processing herbs for use
in industry, both beauty and health.
Homeopathy
The practice of natural medicine, using herbal substances rather than
conventional medications.
Homosalate
Artificial chemical that is used to replace the phenolic compounds that
are used in sunscreens.
Humectant
Used to retain moisture. Using a natural humectant in a cosmetic product
helps speed moisturization to the skin.
Hyaluronic Acid
A chemical ingredient that helps skin hold on to moisture. It is the
body's natural lubricantand part of the natural moisturizing factor.
Hydrate
As a noun, this means a compound formed by the union of water with another
substance. As a verb, it means to supply water to something that absorbs
it.
Hydrocortisone
A hormone from the adrenal gland. Synthesized for medical use,
particularly for application to inflamed skin. It can adversely affect the
skin by damaging the collagen of the connective tissues.
Hydrolyzed Animal Protein
Appears in many shampoos. Improves hair, repairs spilt ends, and gives
luster to the hair.
Hydrophilic
Cosmetic ingredient that will attract moisture to the skin.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Artificial polymer is used as an emulsifier and plasticizer.
Hypericum Extract
Also known as St. John's Wort. An extract of the leaves of the stem of the
Hypericum Perforatum which is known for its ability to purify and soothe
the skin.
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Commonly used cosmetic preservative. Can cause contact dermatitis.
Infusion
The addition of an herb or other natural substance to an oil or other
liquid to extract the fragrance or flavor into that liquid.
In Vitro
Experiments carried out in an artificial environment, outside of living
organisms.
In Vivo
Within a living organism, as opposed to in vitro.
Iodine
Nonmetallic element. Occurs in seawater and in plants and animals that
grow in the sea. When applied topically, it has antiseptic benefits.
Irish Moss
Also known as carrageenan. A seaweed that looks like moss which is used as
a soothing emollient.
Iron Oxides
Compounds of iron that are used as colorings in some cosmetics. Also known
as jewelers' rouge or rust.
Isopropyl Alcohol
Artificial fatty alcohol. Used as an antiseptic, a solvent, a rubbing
alcohol, and as a source for acetone.
Isopropyl Lanolate, Laurate, Oleate,
Palmitate, Stearate, and Isostearate
These are esters of isopropyl alcohol and various fatty acids.
Isopropyl Myristate
This synthetic chemical is used to reduce the greasy feel caused by the
high oil content of other ingredients.
Ivy Extract
An extract of the climbing plant. Used for its anti-septic properties.
Jasmine Oil
Often used as a source of perfume. The oil is considered antidepressant
and relaxing, and is used externally to soothe dry or sensitive skin.
Jojoba Butter and Oil
Extracted from the edible seeds of the desert shrub Simondsia
californica. Used as a lubricant and hair conditioner. Often used in
shampoos, moisturizers, and sunscreens. May cause allergic reactions.
Juniper Extract
Extract obtained from the sweet pulp of the juniper berry. Works as a
natural skin and hair freshener, and has anti-itching qualities.
Juniper Oil
Has a slightly warming effect on the skin and is thought to promote
removal of waste products from underlying tissues. Effectively tones skin.
Kaolin
Used in manufacturing high-grade porcelain, paper, paint, cloth, soaps,
and many powdered and covering cosmetics. It's also used for its
dehydrating and astringent effect. It's known as China Clay.
Keratin
This insoluble albumoid (fiber protein) can be found in horny tissues like
the hair and nails. High in sulfur, it's quite strong, but it is subject
to chemical penetration.
Ketones
These odorous substances, used in nail polish removers, are toxic.
Labeling
The Cosmetic Labeling Act ( Fair packaging and labeling act ) marked a
major step in helping consumers become aware of what they put into their
hair and rub onto their faces. Passed April 14, 1977, it requires that
ingredients be listed, in descending order of concentration, on the labels
of most cosmetics. Soap, however, excluded, and flavors, fragrances and
trade secrets don't have to be listed specifically.
Lactic Acid
Naturally occurs in products made by bacterial fermentation. Produces pH
levels like those of the hair and skin. It also helps moisturize the skin
naturally.
Lake Colors
These solid forms of dyes are made by mixing liquid dye with an insoluble
powder like aluminum oxide. They may be natural, but they're usually
manufactured and are made from coal tar.
Lanolin
This yellow, semisolid, fatty discharge from sheep's wool is used as an
emulsifier, a base, and an ointment. There have been some reports of
allergic reactions.
Lauramide DEA
This white, waxy, nonionic, artificial chemical is used in shampoos,
bubble baths, and detergents as a surfactant and foam-builder. It may be
mildly irritating to the skin.
Lauryl Alcohol
This fatty alcohol, often derived from coconut oil, is used to make
anionic surfactants. It may be natural or man-made.
Lavender Oil
Known for its sweet, floral-herbaceous scent. Lavender has significant
antiseptic and antibacterial actions which help promote healing. Used in
baths to relax, revive and soothe. For use on all skin types.
Layering
The ability of a person to wear different forms of the same fragrance at
the same time. For example, bath gel, bath powder and cologne all used at
the same time, it surrounds the user with a fragrance experience.
Lecithin
Used as an emulsifier and surfactant. High in the B vitamins choline and
inositol. It's found in egg yolk and manufactured from soy oil.
Lemon Oil
From the fruit of the citrus lemon. Known for its astringent and
anti-irritant qualities.
Lime Oil
Shares many qualities with lemon oil. Has many antiseptic and restorative
properties.
Linden Extract
From the flowers of the Linden tree. The flowers contain essential oils
which are celebrated for their brightening and soothing qualities.
Linoleic Acid
Essential fatty acid, found in cold pressed oils, used as an emulsifier in
cosmetics.
Lipids
These materials are soluble in alcohol (and other solvents) but not in
water. Includes fatty acids, fats, waxes, fixed oils, phosphatides,
cerebrosides, and sometimes steroids and carotenoids. Along with proteins
and carbohydrates, lipids constitute the structure of cells. When used on
the skin, they have a moisturizing and cream action.
Liposomes
Microscopic sacs obtained from natural or synthetic sources. Because these
can easily penetrate the skin, in lotions and creams liposomes are used to
deliver substances, contained within the sac, to internal skin layers.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Flaky white solid. Used as a filler and thickener in cosmetics. Especially
used in antiperspirants, creams, and shaving creams.
Magnesium Stearate
Used as a filler in cosmetics.
Matricaria Oil
Oil obtained from the dried flower heads of
the plant Matricaria Chamomilla. Celebrated as a source of azulene, the
blue substance known for its reviving quality.
MEA
Monoethanolamine. See alkyloamides.
Melon Extract Melon has natural cleansing properties as well as the ability to soften and soothe the skin.
Menthol
Derived from peppermint. Has soothing properties if used in concentrations
of 1% or less.
Methyl Acetate
Artificial chemical used as an aromatic and solvent. It can cause dryness.
Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)
Flammable, colorless liquid. Primarily used as a solvent. Skin irritant.
Mica
Somewhat shiny silicate minerals split into very thin sheets. Used in eye
cosmetics to provide sparkle.
Middle Note
The second stage of fragrance development on the skin. Individuals react
to different chemicals causing variations in scent.
Milk Bath
A bath preparation made with milk products as the base. A natural product,
it is soothing to the skin.
Milk Protein
Obtained from a whole cow's milk. For
centuries, milk has been used as a natural, soothing skin cleanser and
softener.
Mineral Oil
A liquid mixture of hydrocarbons gathered from petroleum. Light mineral
oil is an ingredient of choice as an essential moisturizer for psoriasis,
primarily functioning as an occlusive barrier to retard moisture loss
without restricting essential ingredient absorption. In the case of a
psoriatic condition the water loss from the external skin layers can
exceed the rate of replacement from below, hence as part of our
formulation, it is necessary to place an occlusive barrier onto the
surface of the skin to retard water loss.
Moisturizer
When externally used on the hair or skin raises the moisture content.
Monoethanolamine
Liquid amino alcohol that is used as an humectant and emulsifier in
cosmetics.
Nail Polish Remover
Highly flammable. Can dissolve many plastics. It can be fatal if
swallowed. The conditioning ingredients do little to mitigate acetone's
strongly drying and degreasing effects.
Natural
Ingredients produced entirely from extracts taken from plants or animals,
with no synthetic substances or additives.
Natural Spray
A spray in pump form, using no aerosol or chemical additives.
Nettle Leaf
Primarily used as a cleansing, detoxifying
agent. Helps many skin conditions.
Nitrocellulose
Flammable man-made substance. Used as an emulsifier and protective film in
cosmetics, especially nail polish.
Nitrosamines
Carcinogenic compounds formed from secondary amines (nitosating agents)
and nitrous acid. Typical nitrosating agents used in cosmetic formulations
are DEA, MEA, and TEA.
Non-acnegenic
Will not clog oil glands to produce a break-out on people prone to acne.
Non-comedogenic
Does not clog oil glands to cause blemishes.
Oatmeal
Ground oat kernels (after husks have been removed). A natural, mild
exfoliant. Soothing to the skin. Found in Oatmeal-Lavender Cleanser and
Oatmeal-Mint Cleanser.
Oil-based
A product in which oil soluble solutions are the major part.
Oil Glands
Oil/Sebaceous glands produce a waxy-fatty substance called sebum which
lubricates the skin and protects it from moisture loss.
Oleic Acid
Fatty acid that is a common constituent of many animals and vegetables. It
is a common cosmetic ingredient.
Oleth-2 through Oleth-50
These polyethylene glycol ethers of oleic alcohol are used as surfactants.
Oleyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol. Oily, unsaturated liquid found in fish oils. Is used to
make surface-active agents.
Organic
Natural chemical compounds found in nature, void of synthetic substances.
Also known as all-natural.
Oxybenzone
Sunscreening agent derived from isopropanol.
Ozokerite
Naturally occurring waxlike mineral. An emulsifier and thickening agent
used in lipstick and cream rouge.
Palmitate
Used in baby oils, bath oils, eye creams, hair conditioners, and
moisturizers. It can cause allergic reactions in some people.
Palmitic Acid
Fatty acid from palm oil.
Palm Oil
White to yellowish fat. Used to make soaps, shampoos, ointments, and
margarine.
Para-aminobenzoic Acid (PABA)
Found in Vitamin B complex. Used in sunscreen formulations and as an
anesthetic in sunburn products. Can cause allergic reactions.
Parabens
Toxic. Allergenic. Artificial chemicals. Used to preserve cosmetics. They
are not effective with shampoos or with products that contain proteins.
Paraffin
Waxy, crystalline mixture. Used as a thickener for cosmetics.
Parfum
See Perfume
Patchouli
Native to Malaysia and the Philippines, Patchouli has been used
extensively in Asian Medicine. Its most common use has been as an
aphrodisiac. It is thought to have a regenerative effect.
Patch Test
Apply a small amount of cosmetic to your inner arm, cover it with a
bandage and leave it for 24 hours, if you are concerned with allergic
reactions.
Pectin
Natural substance. Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickener.
Contains partially methoxylated polygalacturonic acids.
PEG Compounds
Artificial. Used as solvents, bases, carriers, emulsifiers, and
dispersants.
Peppermint Oil
An excellent antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Soothes and tones
blemished, irritated skin. Cooling.
Peptides
Natural or artificial. Composed of amino acids linked by peptide bonds.
When peptide bonds in the hair are broken, the result is damaged hair.
Perfume
The most concentrated form of synthetically prepared fragrance, applied to
the skin to enhance the nature of one’s image. Dating back to ancient
times, perfume was created by the Egyptians of resins and wood mixed with
oils and water. Today’s perfumes are an enhanced blend of essential
oils, alcohol and water, and the “secret” ingredients of its creator.
Petroleum Jelly
Semisolid mixture. Obtained from petroleum.
PHBs
These are preservatives widely used in many cosmetics and shampoo. Another
name is paraben.
Phosphoric Acid
Clear, viscous liquid. Use in cosmetics as an antioxidant, sequestrant,
and acidifier.
Photo damage/ photoaging
Changes the appearance and function of the skin due to repeated sun
exposure and not to the passage of time; may result in skin cancer. Sun
protection is the principle means of protecting photoaging changes. Skin
cancer incidence can also be reduced.
Phototoxic
Medications or food which render the skin sensitive to light (sun) thereby
causing an adverse reaction.
Phytocosmetic
A cosmetic made mainly from vegetable sources.
Pineapple Extract
Pineapple's anti-inflammation and anti-irritation qualities, combined with
its ability to refine the skin make it excellent for face care products.
Placenta
An organ present in all mammals except marsupials and monotremes, unites
the fetus to the mother and is expelled at birth. Bovine placenta liquid,
obtained from cows, is used in some cosmetics as a moisturizer.
Polymers, polymeric, polymerization
Used in cosmetics to keep sunscreens from washing off, in hair-setting
products, and as binders in skin creams. Plastic fingernails are also
produced by polymerization.
Polysorbates
Fatty acid esters. Used in many cosmetics as emulsifiers. Polysorbates are
assigned different numerical values according to their formulas and
whether they're intended to be used in foods or cosmetics.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone
Commonly known as PVP. Used in hairspray and other cosmetics. Inhaled
particles may cause problems in the lungs of sensitive people.
Potpourri
A mixture of dried, sweet smelling flowers, leaves, and or spices used as
a sachet or pomander. Potpourri has become a favorite fragrance mixture
for various home craft projects.
Preservatives
Researchers have become increasingly aware of the dangers associated with
microbial contamination of topical skin products and know more today than
ever about the sources of contamination. Unfortunately the battle against
contamination is far from won as adaptable organisms continue to cause
problems resulting in bacterial infections of the skin.
Pre-Shave
A fragranced liquid used by men before shaving to lubricate the face and
prepare the skin.
Propylene Glycol
One of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics. Most common moisture
carrying vehicle other than water. Permeates skin better than glycerin,
but causes more sensitivity reactions.
Protein
Protein consists of amino acids and constitutes about 15% of human body
weight. Protein is of critical importance in the structure and function of
cells. Recently the use of proteins has been broadened to skin care since
many skin problems such as chapping and dryness appear to be associated
with damage to or actual loss of skin protein.
Psoriasis
A chronic inflammatory skin disease of unknown cause in which skin cells
replicate at a rapid rate. Psoriasis cannot be passed from one person to
another, though it is more likely to occur in people whose family members
have it. The rash usually consists of scaly red patches that can cause
itching. Certain conditions, e.g., infection, some drugs, climate and
perhaps hormonal factors and smoking, may trigger attacks.
Pulse Points
The areas on the body where the pulse of the heart is felt close to the
skin. The pressure of the pulse will generate heat, therefore forcing the
fragrance applied at these points to be enhanced. Pulse points are located
behind the earlobes, at the wrists, behind the knees, on the neck, and in
between the breasts.
PVP
Abbreviation for Polyvinylpyrrolidone. A faintly yellow, solid, plastic
resin resembling albumen. Used to give a softer set in shampoos,
hairsprays, and lacquers; also a carrier in emollient creams, liquid lip
rouge, and face rouge; also a clarifier in vinegar and a plasma expander
in medicine. The CIR Expert panel says based on available data, it is safe
as a cosmetic ingredient
Quaternary Ammonium Salts
Used as water repellents, fungicides, emulsifiers, paper and fabric
softeners, antistatic agents, and corrosion inhibitors. Their use in
cosmetics, especially in hair conditioners and creme rinses, came from the
paper and fabric industries.
Quaternium-15
Toxic chemical. More effective against bacteria than against molds and
yeast.
Remedy
A substance used to cure or heal an illness, pain or disorder. This can be
a prepared medication, a natural substance found in nature, or a
combination of the two.
Retin A (Also called retinoic acid)
A prescription drug for the treatment of acne. Is also believed to help
repair sun damage.
Retinoic Acid
A derivative of Vitamin A.
Retinoids/Retinol
A series of compounds derived from Vitamin A. These compounds are found in
skin and aid in its normal functioning.
Retinyl Palmitate
A form of Vitamin A that is included in skin formulations and may improve
elasticity and temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines.
Rose Oil
The healing virtues of the rose have been known since antiquity. Helps
soothe dry, sensitive skin.
Rose Hips
Scarlet fruit (called "hips") come from the Dog Rose and have
high levels of vitamins.
Rosemary Oil
A physical and mental stimulant, and an astringent healer used to treat
muscle soreness.
Sachets
A small decorative bag filled with fragrant material used to enhance
one’s home, used to scent clothing in drawers, shoes, furniture,
luggage.
Salicyclic Acid
The active ingredient in aspirin. Used in cosmetics as an antiseptic and
preservative.
Saponins (Quillia Extract)
Many plants (soap plants) contain substances called saponins which form a
natural lather in water that is a gentle but effective natural cleaner and
some have been used as an alternative to soap.
Sandalwood Oil
Deep, soft, sweet, woody balsamic scent. Highly esteemed in China and
India. Plays a part in Hindu ritual.
Sassafras
Essential oil obtained from the roots of the Sassafras tree. Is a healing
and antiseptic extract that can reduce irritation and swelling.
Saturated Fats
A fat usually of animal origin. When fatty acid chains can't accommodate
any more hydrogen atoms they become saturated.
Sebaceous Glands
Glands in the skin that open into hair follicles and from which sebum is
secreted.
Seborrhea
A condition in which there is over-activity of the sebaceous glands. The
distinctive characteristics of the disorder are its common occurrence in
hair areas (especially the scalp), the appearance of well-demarcated, dull
yellowish-red lesions, and the associated presence of greasy or dry
scales. Rashes can occur on the face, shoulders and chest./p
Seaweed
High in vitamins A, B - complex, C and E. A skin and scalp nutrient,
soothing and toning.
Sesame Oil
Softens skin.
Shea Butter
An excellent emollient for skin moisturizers made from Mangifolia Tree
Nuts High in triglycerides and fatty acids.
Skin Disease
In the course of development before birth, skin is particularly associated
with the nervous system. It is therefore not surprising that so many skin
diseases are influenced by the emotional states. Other causes of skin
disease are infections, glandular disorders and vitamin deficiencies.
Early detection and treatment improve the prognosis for many skin
conditions and medical advice can lead to beneficial therapy.
Skin Texture
Appearance of the skin which may be rough, smooth, dull, dry and scaly,
etc.
Skintone
Makeup: Consistency with skin color.
Skincare: Refers to the skin's firmness.
Soap
A cleansing material made of oils, detergents and fragrance, used on skin.
Comes in many different forms; bar soap, liquid soap, gels, and flakes.
The detergents in soap combine with water to penetrate the skin, attract
the dirt particles and separate them from the skin, making them easier to
then rinse away.
Sodium Alginate
Natural compound. Mostly used as a thickener and emulsifier in foods,
pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics.
Sodium Ascorbate
Used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and preservative.
Sodium Bisulphite
Artificial chemical that is used as a hair relaxer and a preservative.
Sodium Borate
Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, preservative and detergent builder.
Sodium Carbonate
Used in cosmetics as a humectant and an alkalizer.
Sodium Citrate
Crystalline salt. Used in cosmetics as a sequestrant and an alkalizer, and
in foods as a buffering agent.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Very popular ingredient. Used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfactant
in over a thousand cosmetic products. This includes shampoos, toothpaste,
lotions, and creams. Even though it is very popular, this additive
can be harsh and drying to the skin.
Sodium Thioglycolate
A chemical used in permanents as a hair relaxer. Is a primary irritant.
Sorbitol
Derived from fruit or algae. A humectant that gives skin a velvety feel.
Gives a lubricant quality to lotions.
Soybean Oil
Pale yellow oil. Consists of mostly glycerides of linoleic, oleic,
linolenic, and palmitic acids. Used in cosmetics as an emollient.
Spearmint Oil
Essential oil obtained from the fresh spearmint plant. Known for its
healing, soothing properties.
Stearalkonium Chloride
Used almost universally in hair conditioners. It was originally developed
by the textile industry for use as a fabric softener. It also has
antistatic properties.
Steareth-2,-4,-7,-10,-20,-30
Used as lotions and emulsifiers.
Stearic Acid
Waxy, crystalline fatty acid. Found in cocoa butter and other vegetable
fats. It is mainly from tallow and other animal fats.
Stratum Corneum
The topmost layer of cells of the epidermis.
Subcutaneous
The third and innermost layer of the skin.
Sulfate
Artificial liquid. Made with sulfated oils. Used to make manufactured
soaps and detergents. Harmful to marine life and the environment.
Sugar Cane Extract
Gently removes damaged, dead and dry cell so fresh, healthy-looking skin
can appear.
Sunflower Oil
Extracted from sunflower seeds it is rich in essential fatty acids.
Sunscreen/Sun block
Sunscreens provide protection from damaging/ harmful effects of UVB/ UVA
rays. Sunscreens with a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) can minimize the
danger of photodamage and skin cancers. Sun blocks provide 100% protection
from the sun and therefore do not enable one to tan.
Surfectant
A material (substance) that helps oil and water to mix so that the two
will not separate and will remain a smooth stable cream or lotion
(Emulsifier). They are also are important for cosmetics where mildness is
needed such as shampoos and lotions.
TEA
Triethanolamine. Used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, an emulsifier, a
preservative, and in soap formulations. May be harmful when contaminated
by nitrosamines.
TEA-Lauryl Sulfate
Very popular shampoo ingredient. Used as synthetic detergent. A
combination of triethanolamine and the salt of lauryl sulfuric acid.
Tea Tree
A plant found in Australia, used for its unique fragrance and healing
properties.
Tea Tree Oil
Derived from the tree Melaleuca alternifolia. Used as an
antiseptic and germicide. Also used for insect bites, skin problems, as a
dentifrice, and mouthwash. Cosmetic applications are often dandruff
shampoos, face masks, and topical creams.
Thioglycolates
Compounds capable of breaking down the protein bonds in hair. Used in
permanent waves and depilatory agents. Toxic in small doses and can damage
hair and skin.
Thyme Extract
From the dried leaves and flowering tops of the wild, creeping herb. Is
antiseptic, disinfectant, cleansing and hygienic.
Titanium Dioxide
White powder. Used as a pigment in eye makeup, sunscreens, and foundation
makeup. It is also used as an opacifying agent, for its covering power,
brilliance, and reflectivity.
Toilet Water
A less concentrated form of fragrance than perfume, usually 4 to 8%. This
is a less aromatic scent, making it more suitable for daytime use, and the
business world.
Toluene
Used as a solvent in cosmetics, especially nail polish, and also dyes. It
is used in pharmaceuticals and gasoline as a blending agent. It is toxic
and narcotic in high concentrations.
Top Note
The initial odor or scent given off by a fragrance after application to
the skin. The strongest emission of bouquet, before it is altered by the
body chemistry.
Tragacanth
Herbal gum. Used as a thickener in cosmetics, and in hair care products as
a hairspray or setting-lotion ingredient.
Triclosan
An antibacterial agent used in deodorant and deodorant soaps. Absorption
through skin may cause liver damage.
Urea
Found in urine and other body fluids. Used medicinally as a diuretic and
in cosmetics. Can cause an allergic reaction to those allergic to ammonia
and is an eye irritant.
Vetiver Oil
With a deep smoky, earthy, woody odor, it is used as a tonic and
antiseptic. Helps encourage circulation and is also used for its aromatic,
fine fragrance.
Vitamins
Essential for normal growth and contribute to the natural moisturizing
factor. The skin is often the first indication of a vitamin deficiency
that can cause dry skin.
Vitamin A
Fat-soluble vitamin. Helps remedy rough, dry skin and has been used in the
treatment of psoriasis. It has been used as a topical acne treatment. Some
people are allergic to it. It has been used to treat aging skin. It can be
obtained from fish liver oil, liver, carrots, green and yellow vegetables,
eggs, milk, and dairy products, margarine, and yellow fruits. It prevents
vitamin C from being oxidized too quickly in the body. Normal dosages are
harmless.
Vitamin C
Can preserve cosmetics both in the water phase and in its fat-soluble
form. It plays an important role in building collagen, the connective
tissue that holds us together.
Vitamin D
Fat-soluble vitamin essential for healthy bones, teeth, and the absorption
of calcium. The body can produce its own vitamin D from sun exposure.
Vitamin E
One of the most compelling natural fat-soluble antioxidants in use,
particularly when combined with vitamin C and vitamin A.
Walnut Shell Powder
The ground powder of the walnut shell acts as a natural exfoliant
Water-based
A product in which water and water soluble materials constitute the major
part.
Wheat Germ Oil
Oil from the embryo of the wheat kernel that is high in vitamin E. Used as
a moisturizer in cosmetics.
Whitehead
The plug of a clogged oil gland (pore) lying beneath the surface of the
skin. Smaller that a blackhead, it is sometimes only visible with the help
of a magnifying glass
Wintergreen Oil
A tonic, stimulant and astringent, aromatic oil has a warming action on
muscles. Brings relief to swollen or sore muscles.
Witch Hazel
A natural extract from the leaves and twigs of a shrub. A skin refresher,
local anesthetic and a natural, gentle astringent. It is soothing to the
skin and helps regulate sebaceous glands.
Zinc Oxide
White powder used in skin ointments for ultraviolet protection and diaper
rash treatment. Also used for its skin-cleansing properties.
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